ROME

Was there ever a city so impressive? So beautiful? So full of shops?

To tour Rome in 2000, we were provided a guide, Annalivia Villa, by our hosts. She was extraordinary. We saw a lot more than Russ saw in two previous visits, so if you aren't on a tight budget and want to see Rome from a Roman perspective, call Annalivia. Her address is cosimoalb@tiscalinet.it.

In 2002, by a fluke, a completely separate company hosting us contracted with Annalivia to be our guide again. We were delighted. This time we saw Nero's Golden Palace and, outside Rome, Hadrian's Villa, pix of which are below.

In 2003, Russ' brother headed to Rome; through the kindness of Roman friends, Annalivia was his guide, with a car and driver. He loved it, and her.

In 2004, when we took a friend, it was of course Annalivia we contracted with to lead us, and she secured a fine and reasonable car and driver.

In 2005, when we took Kaye's mother to Rome, once again Annalivia was our guide.

USING A GUIDE - AND A CAR AND DRIVER IF YOU'VE GOT THE BUDGET - IS EASILY THE MOST EFFECTIVE - AND EFFICIENT- WAY TO SEE ROME. OFFICIAL GUIDES GET YOU PAST THE LONG WAITING LINES; THEY KNOW THE BEST WAYS TO APPROACH AND MANAGE THE PRIMARY ATTRACTIONS AND CAN SELECT LESSER KNOWN PLACES BASED ON YOUR INTERESTS. GRABBING A SERIES OF CABS OR WALKING TREMENDOUS DISTANCES ISN'T EASY OR INEXPENSIVE. HAVE ANNALIVIA ARRANGE FOR A CAR AND DRIVER. YOU'LL SEE TWO DAYS' WORTH IN ONE, AND BE MUCH MORE RELAXED THAT EVENING. IT'S NOT FOR THOSE ON A LIMITED BUDGET - FIGURE A EIGHT HUNDRED TO A THOUSAND EUROS FOR THE DAY, INCLUDING TIPS AND LUNCH. AND CONTACT US IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS, DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TIP, ETC.

NOTE: You may want services other than guide or driver. We have long relied on Hotel de Russie's outstanding concierges to arrange our airport transportation, long-term taxis, restaurant reservations, and the like. If you are not staying there or in a similar four or five-star hotel, you may want to contract for your own personal concierge, especially if you aren't sure how to manage your time and aren't familiar with Rome. A four-year former concierge at Hotel de Russie has set up a personal concierge service. Go to www.conciergeinrome.com for a good alternative.

ANOTHER THING NOT TO MISS - ROME AT NIGHT. THE CITY'S BUILDINGS AND ANCIENT SITES ARE LIGHTED MORE DRAMATICALLY THAN IN ANY OTHER CITY ON EARTH. HAVE YOUR CONCIERGE ARRANGE FOR A TAXI AND ASK HIM TO TELL THE DRIVER WHERE YOU'D LIKE TO GO - THE COLISEUM, THE TREVI FOUNTAIN, SPANISH STEPS - HE'LL GET THE IDEA.

Above, the Forum by day; at right, the same location, at night, 2004, taken wtih Russ' wide angle lens..

Annalivia in 2000; us at the Forum (Kaye wants to be a Vestal Virgin, the only women with real power (including pardoning criminals) in ancient Rome).

In 2002 the city had recently covered a part of the Coliseum where the original floor was for a play; it was great to get an idea of the immense spectacle as well as the areas where the Christians, lions, and other victims lay waiting to die. A terrifying view of history.

The Vatican was, as always impressive.

Annalivia took us to a beautiful church, San Clemente, with incredible faded frescoes detailing life in Italy back to the 4th century. As we made our way deeper and deeper into the lower levels of the church, each from different centuries, there was a preserved street from ancient Rome. The width of the stone road from building to building was all of about 20" across! The lowest level housed a temple devoted to the all-male religion of the Mithras. With a guide to give us all the historical background and translate the meaning of the frescoes, the tour of San Clemente was an incredible illustration of how the Romans built their city layer upon layer over time.

Annalivia in 2002. A statue in Nero's Golden Palace, now underground.

Statuary along one of the "lakes" at Hadrian's Villa. On the right, Annalivia in 2004. She was our guide again in 2005, but she insists that we use only earlier photos from now on. Kaye agrees that I was being insensitive in setting up a site which might show the passages of time. Funny, I look old in all of them.

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