THE SEASONS

SUMMER

If you go in the summer, it is very hot and very humid, especially in August.  August is also when most Italians (and French and Germans) go on vacation, crowding the tourist season even more.  The shops are all open, the restaurants have lots of variety of foods to offer, and the coasts are beautiful (but Positano citizens say that it's humid and filled with the smell of the huge diesel tourist buses, which will turn your quick 30 minute trip from Sorrento into and hour to an hour and a half).  The water in the swimming pools is closer to acceptable, by American standards (only luxury hotels have heated, freshwater pools).  And the sunflowers will be in bloom.  If you have children this is probably your only option.  Just plan far, far ahead.

If you don't have children or aren't limited, please go in Spring or Fall. 

FALL

If you go after Labor Day, you may still experience a little warm weather, but mostly it will be chilly enough for a sweater or jacket; the pools will be frigid (except for the luxury hotels like Punta Tragara on Capri with its heated, salt water pool or Aldrovandi Palace in Rome with its heated fresh water pool); and the menus will begin to change, with truffles and game and fall vegetables predominant.   (Warning - white truffles are late September at the earliest, but, if they're not on the menu, ask for them.  We did that at Camponeschi in the third week of September and were rewarded because an early truffle hunter had come to the kitchen door with a small basket of delight.)

The sunflowers won't be in bloom, but the vines will be heavy with grapes.  Many wealthy Italians and other Europeans, especially Germans, know that the summer tourists are gone; so you will have to plan as far ahead as if it were summer to be sure of finding the accommodations you want.  This is especially true of the coasts and more exclusive restaurants and hotels.

The weeks after Labor Day are Russ' favorite time to be in Italy.  

WINTER

If you go in winter, it will be cold, with snow in many parts.  Many hotels and restaurants close for the winter.  If, for some reason, you want to go then or must, you will have to plan ahead to find places that are open.  (We understand from Lucio in Positano (see Planning Ahead or Positano) that it's balmy along the Amalfi Coast and that Positano is beautiful in Christmas when the residents light up their houses.  We're going to try it some day.  But he warns that even hotels that are open have skeleton staffs - you'll be better off renting a local villa (apartment) for the week.)

SPRING

If you go in spring, your run the risk of late chills and rain, but the flowers are out, personalities are emerging from winter, and the tourists aren't here yet.

The last week of May and first week of June is Kaye's favorite time to be in Italy.  We've been twice in May and twice in September [Russ has also been in Rome, Venice, and Florence in June, July, and August.]

For a more intimate and descriptive view of the seasons, read Elizabeth Romer's The Tuscan Year.

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